SHIMONOSEKI, Japan—The chef fires up the grill and bastes a chunky whale steak, a Japanese delicacy that could soon appear on more plates nationwide as a new whaling mothership sets sail despite criticism from conservationists.

Fatty raw pink-and-white whale meat is also on the menu at Nisshinmaru, a restaurant named after Japan's previous huge vessel for catching the marine mammals, now retired after three decades at sea.

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