Calbayog village in Malilipot town, Albay province: Delfina Guiwan's heart was pounding as she snuck back to her village, now abandoned and eerily quiet, in the fertile foothills of the gently erupting Mayon Volcano.

When patrolling police spotted her, they warned that the village was off-limits because of the danger of a violent eruption at any time.

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