LEPUSHE, Albania: For decades, Gjystina Grishaj chopped wood, drove tractors and tended livestock as the man of the house in a remote valley in northern Albania, only to find herself alone after years of sacrifice supporting her family.

Grishaj is among the last of Albania's "sworn virgins" — an ancient, gender-bending tradition that saw her renounce sex, married life and parenthood in exchange for the right to live and work as a man in the country's deeply patriarchal society.

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